We Do Comfort
We can maximize your air quality and environment in Kalispell MT
There are many different ways to heat the air in your home. A Gas or Electric Furnace, a Heat Pump, a Boiler or Ductless Mini Splits. Electric heat is also an option, but usually not the most comfortable or energy efficient. If you have electric wall or baseboard heat in your home, request an energy and comfort consultation today!
The furnace is the largest piece of equipment in an HVAC system. It’s usually in the basement, and it’s an important component. The furnace moves air from the heat exchanger into the air ducts. The furnace is usually confused with boilers, but they’re different HVAC appliances
The Heat Exchanger.
The heat exchanger is not part of the furnace. It’s located inside the furnace, but the heat exchanger has its own capabilities. It adds heat to the incoming air, preparing it for distribution into your home.
Adding Cooling Control to the air in your home can be done three ways.
Air Conditioning: The Evaporator Coil
If you’re adding AC to existing equipment, it’s often done with an Air Conditioner. This is a separate unit, along with an evaporator coil, that can be added to most any system with central forced air. This HVAC part is also in the furnace, but handles a different job. Refrigerant (a fluid that causes cooling) runs through the evaporator coil. The coil absorbs the heat from air passing over it. The now-cold air blows through the air ducts throughout your home.
Heat Pump: The Condensing Unit
The most efficient way to cool is with a Heat Pump as it provides heating and cooling with one system. Heat Pumps use a condensing unit, which is like the evaporator coil but for an outdoor HVAC unit. Inside the cube-shaped unit, the condensing unit exchanges heat with the air that passes over it. Unlike the evaporator coil, the condensing unit gives off heat as well.
Ductless: The Mini Condensing Unit
Ductless Mini Splits, are again, another option, great for attic rooms, spaces with no option for ductwork, or other unique situations.
Since the beginning of time, humankind has controlled indoor environment to our benefit and comfort. Generally, adding humidification to a home is not as costly as some may believe, and the benefits far outweigh the cost.
Humidity Control Benefits
Dry air is much more conducive to mites and other bacteria than humidity ranges of between 30 and 55%. Not to mention, homes with low humidity levels (below 30%) have been associated with respiratory distress and illness.
Dry air is not as efficient in holding warmth as humidified air – thermal inefficiency will make it feel colder.
Without humidification, the environment will find moisture elsewhere. The effect of pulling moisture out of the human body via a dry environment creates a phenomenon that cools the skin and makes it feel 3 to 5 degrees cooler – it generates the same effect as perspiration.
Humidity control eliminates most static electricity, dry skin, and dry hair.
Introducing whole-house humidification will lower your energy costs. In many cases, being able to set the thermostat at a lower level basically pays for the upgrade in a few short years. A consultation with an Ace Expert can provide more information.
Ductwork and venting are key to home comfort. 70% of systems are installed incorrectly, and with ductwork, this can lead to noise, premature equipment failure and decreased energy efficiency. This can also cause hot and cold spots, like a room that just doesn’t warm up enough in the winter. If your home has this, contact us for a comfort consultation.
To get the best benefit from your system, the unit must be properly sized to your home. If your unit is over/under sized there are many symptoms you may experience. If the unit is too big, it may short cycle, where the thermostat calls for cool air, the unit turns on, blows cold air hard and fast for a short time, turns off because it has brought the temperature down quickly, but then will cycle back on again soon after. If Duct work is under sized, it can cause a lot of strain on the blower motor, which is a common costly repair. Also, not enough air movement across the coil can cause coil freezing: ice build up on indoor unit. Premature heat exchanger failure is another costly repair that is avoidable with proper equipment sizing.
Filtering our indoor air is important in this age, with asthma, seasonal allergies, indoor air allergies, pollution and summer wildfires. Even without the outdoor contaminants, the inside of your home can be filled with dust, made from dead skin cells, and toxic insulation particles from improperly sealed walls and ceilings.
Basic air filter stops larger particles, dust etc…but the smaller ones will make it into your home.
We caution you on box store filters that are advertised to stop every particle under the sun…because those can restrict your airflow so greatly, that your system will have the same symptoms as with undersized ductwork: Blower motor failure, ice buildup on the indoor unit and premature heat exchanger failure. With those, the thing to watch is the MERV Rating, unless you’re using a 4-inch filter, stay under a MERV rating of 8 …bigger is not always better
With those smaller particles like pollen, smoke and bacteria that are not stopped from entering your home with a standard filer…there is an electronic air filter! See our section on indoor air quality to learn more about this.
All HVAC systems have these parts. Each component relies on the others to function properly and efficiently. If you’re experiencing any of these issues, or suspect something is off, call an Ace Professional to check on your system.